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impatience

Nine days. The end is not only in sight, I’ve got out my binoculars and I’m staring it down; I’ve had my final papers done for over a week now and I could be packed in 15 minutes flat. So the greatest...

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she’s in my head now

A good reason for hitting the snooze button: you’re interviewing the ghost of Victoria Ocampo in a snowbound, bat-infested mansion and when the alarm went off you were just about to ask her some...

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déjà vu or downright tacky?

Not to get repetitive, but a brief meditation on dreams. (Lest everyone stop reading immediately: I promise not to recount the full plot of any of them.) I sleep so little in Princeton and Rio that I...

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secondhand stories

The statue of the Virgin in Mendoza that looks perfectly normal by day, but when seen from a distance by night looks like she’s dancing. “And not a demure little virgin dance, she’s really shaking it.”...

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tardes villeras

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happy birthday to my partner in crime

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last call

At around 5:30 a.m., the hazy dance floor light turns blue and the orchestra (long-gone; recorded) strikes up “La Cumparsita.” Everyone understands — this is the last dance. It’s a romantic way to drop...

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crossed wires

“Say Facebook.” “Say it.” “Facebook.” “See? I told you.” “Whatever.” A linguistic stumbling-block: Argentines who speak English and Brazilians who speak English can rarely understand each other. Take...

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neighborhood friends

I am a creature of routine, as painfully evidenced by the fact that I can walk into the neighborhood bakery and the coffeeshop near the academic center and communicate my habitual order almost through...

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dear john

It’s not you, Buenos Aires, and it’s not me. It’s Rio. Catch you on the flip side.

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